Contributors

This blog follows the travels of the Turberfield family as they drop out of the normal busyness of corporate life to explore the ancient art of Tibetan Thangka, the dusty mountaintop temples of the eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau and travel overland from Singapore to England.

Offering to The Spiritual Guide in a lofty gompa perched above the natural fort of Dongwan valley, weekly trips to Shangri La's unpredictable shower rooms, keeping the cows out of the bins, scaling sacred Mount Shika, haggling for pu-er in the tea markets of Kunming and the nightly wonder of the milky way - possibly as far as it's possible to get from the subway at rush hour....

The main contributors are Michelle (also widely known as "The Boss") and David with bits and pieces from San San and Jon Jon. We hope you enjoy and look forward to your comments.

Saturday, 26 February 2011

Goodbye Thailand

After nearly 2 weeks in Thailand, we board the overhead sleeper train in Ayutthaya to head for Nong Khai, the border town with Laos.

"Sawa-dee ka" must now be changed to "Sabai-dee".

A event-less night. No fuss. No bedwetting. No falling off the upper bunk. The children find it interesting to sleep on train.

At 9 am in the morning we arrived in Nong Khai and crossed over the Mekong River by another shuttle train. Jon waved goodbye to Thailand.

Thailand, a place of fascination! Beaches, night life, history, culture, Buddhism... You can find it all here.

We used to live here, back in 2000. This is the country where Dave and I got married and where San-San was conceived. There is a mixed feeling. I know how sleazy and dangerous this country can be. However at the same time, it never fails to amaze
me how simple the people are. "Mai Ben Rai" which means never mind is a phrase constantly used with a smile. They are fiercely loyal to their king and sincerely religious. To see so many Buddhas images everywhere is such a blessing!

As we bid farewell to this amazing country, I sincerely hope that Dharma continue to flourish here.

- Posted by Mich using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Vientiane, Laos

Friday, 25 February 2011

Ancient capital of Siam

After a frantic 2 days in Bangkok, we left all that busyness behind us as we boarded the train to head for Ayutthaya, the ancient capital of Siam during the Ayutthaya kingdom.

One and half hour train ride later, we got off at a non-assuming train station. You won't be able guess that this is a hot tourist spot.

The guest house we are staying in is close to the ancient palace. We took 2 bicycles and rode around to do some sight-seeing. It is great not to rely on public transport.

There are many Buddhist temples ' ruins within the ancient palace compound. The children are keen to see the largest reclining outdoor Buddha, having seen the largest reclining Buddha in Wat Pho in Bangkok.

These ancient ruins fascinate me. I always thought it is very romantics to wander through all the were once there and try to imagine the splendor and glory that the place once held.

Throughout the afternoon, I gently debated with the children as to who created these places and where are they now?

All are created by mind and eventually all are dissolved by mind.

I think the Siamese did not build the magnificent architect for tourist to wander around today. Likewise, in 500 years time, New York city may become a ruin for tourist to visit to see the glory of the 21 century.

However, it is hard to see this change coz we hold on to New Year city so tightly and we believe that it will always be there like the way it is now.

Looking at Ayutthaya,I must remember emptiness - everything I see does not really exist the same way I believe it to exist!

Verdict-Ayutthaya a big thumb up. Buddhas, ruins, laid back, friendly and relaxing!!!! Of all the places we have been through to date this is one of my favorite.


- Posted by Mich using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Ayutthaya, Thailand

Wednesday, 23 February 2011

Week 2 - Thailand to Lao

Made it to Samui just in time for a Thai public holiday combined with the full moon party - the place was going berserk! One night in Chewang was a little too long, moved to Coconut Calm on Bo Phut beach which may perhaps have been calm some other time... Squeezing four of us on one double bed in the only room available, with Jon's starfish sleeping style, was a tad tricky so we spent the last two nights at Charlee Villa - a much quieter, simpler and cheaper place (with two beds) at the "dark" end of the beach (much more to our liking....).

With the kids sporting golden tans, we head off on the overnight bus to the madness of Koh San Road in Bangkok. The beach is done.... Ailments to date:

- cut foot (John on a steel bar hidden in the sand)
- cut arm (San slipping on the rocks at the end of the beach)
- cold (Michelle)
- blistered toes (Dave running 7k barefoot on the beach)
- skin rash (San on legs and Dave on body and right arm, possibly some kind of sea lurgy but who knows)
- various levels of sunburn (everyone)

Not too bad so far....


- Posted by Dave using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Koh Samui, Thailand

Rabid dogs of Samui?

Over the years I've taken to running every few days for an hour or so at dawn. I find it the most beautiful time of day, cool in the tropics, the streets are deserted and the world is energized by the sunrise. A time when the family are asleep, I'm not called for or missed - a precious hour within which I can rest my mind in rhythmic breathing. With sunrise at 6, I was thus up at 5:30 on our last morning in Samui heading out for a run. Mindful of the packs of unpredictable semi wild dogs roaming around the island, I venture off towards the track leading from the "resort" to the main road armed with an umbrella and a torch. Just enough starlight to pick out my route between the wooden huts, the only sound my shoes on the sand, a light breeze in the palm trees and the gentle lapping of the ocean at the beach.

Peering into the gloom of the track as it heads into the woods, I hear a deep snarling growl perhaps 25 meters ahead to the right. I imagine I see fiery demon eyes peering out of the blackness when the bushes burst into a chorus of barks sending a chill of adrenaline down my spine. As I hold my ground, weighing up the path and the umbrella gripped firmly in my hand, the barks are answered by more barks further off in the darkness, then others and still more off in the distance in every direction. The gloom appears to be literally crawling with angry dogs and the possibility of launching myself up the track and reaching the main road with my throat intact feels increasingly remote. I decide to postpone this caper until sun up and head back to our hut. It's now maybe 5:35 am. I stroll back to the beach, the chorus of savagery slowly quietening behind me.

Turning in front of the first hut on the beach, I startle four wrecked backpackers lounging on the balcony, shrouded in blue smoke, half smoked spliff in hand no doubt contemplating the nature of the universe in slow hushed tones. My chirpy "morning!" is met initially with surprise, an element of confusion and then a quiet german accented "good morning...." from a young bearded guy whose eyes appeared to be looking in different directions. Being somewhat familiar with their condition, I continue on my way explaining; "I was going for a run - but have you heard those woods? Don't stray from your balcony...". To which the balcony bursts into hysterical laughter that I can still hear as I kick off my shoes back at our hut. I vaguely remember those days.... I wake up Michelle and we spend an hour or so doing puja. When I head out for my run, the woods are bathed in the gentle early morning light, the packs of mangy dogs are still milling about but the dawn has robbed them of their power. The huts at the end of the beach were still silent when we left for Bangkok at mid day.


- Posted by Dave using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Bo Phut Beach, Koh Samui, Thailand

Tuesday, 22 February 2011

Ko Samui - Chaweng and BoPhut beaches

We are leaving tomorrow, and toward the end of this beach life, it has become a more relaxing holiday.

We arrived in Ko Samui, took a taxi which cost Thai Baht 550 after very hard bargaining on Dave's side.

Our first stop was Chaweng Beach. We spent the first night in a crammed room with loft access for an extra mattress. A double room with fan and extra bed cost Thai Baht 1200 including 4 breakfasts. Tel.+66(0)7-7413420

The street of Chaweng beach reminded me of Broad Street in Birmingham, offering different high end clubs and pubs.

Swiftly, we made the decision to move and jumped on a taxi to BoPhud Beach arriving at Coconut Calm Beach Bungalow. A Fan twin bedroom cost Thai Baht 1200. The place was good for someone with a party mood.
Tel.+66(0)77 427 558


After 3 nights, we ventured toward end of the BoPhud beach and found a local run, wooden hut, basic amenity of our delight. We quickly extended our stay and moved to Charlee Villa. The beach is as not as brilliant as the 2 previous but Charlee offers quiet and low key holiday. No hawkers, no massages, just a simple restaurant. Triple fan room at Thai Baht 900. Tel. +66(0)7-8857884

Tomorrow, we shall carry on with our journey toward Bangkok. Another night on the bus!

A word of advise to those on budget- it is worth to make a trip to BoPhud fisherman's village to book tickets back to Bangkok. It will be cheaper than booking it through the accommodation.

The most expensive cost is transport fee in Ko Samui. So be prepared to pay tourist price even 200baht for a 5 min journey in taxi and tut-tut!


- Posted by Mich using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Ko Samui

Wednesday, 16 February 2011

Week 1 - Singapore to Thailand

After a sleepy and starry night stopping in Malaysia only for teh tarric and comfort breaks, our 'luxury' coach delivers us in a comfortable and timely fashion to Hat Yai in southern Thailand.

The King smiles down on the tattooed bands of smoking western travelers staggering from mini vans into the immigration queue on their fortnightly visa runs, replenished with duty free. Orange Malay campung gives way to the blue corrugated tin roofs of rural Thailand, side roads degrade to dirt as the sun comes up over our third country in thirteen hours.

That familiar sense of stepping down from the organized glitz of Singapore's wealth with each northern border crossing sets in as the pace slows like a satisfied sigh. This is the children's first time in Thailand; the country where San San was conceived and our journey into marriage and parenthood began; the country that awoke my gypsy blood with Richard and Catherine back in 1991. It's good to be back. The beach calls.


- Posted by Dave using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Hat Yai, Thailand

Our 2nd journey

Finally we are on our way. 12 hours bus ride through the peninsula of Malaysia got us to the border city of Thailand, Hat Yai. Bus fare was S$40 for each seat with Sri Maju Bus service. It was comfortable enough to sleep through the journey. The bus arrived on time and dropped us off at its tour office where we bought our next bus tickets for Ko Samui - B580 per person for bus and ferry to Ko Samui.

Stayed in Cathy guesthouse, the most popular backpacker accommodation- only 400 Thai Baht for a 4 beds room with high ceiling and fans. Very noisy as it located in the main streets of the city. Luckily for us it was only the next street up from the tour office.

Despite the noise and the heat, we slept well.

This morning we set off again for another 7 hours on the road. Now we are on a ferry almost on Ko Samui. Strangely I recalled the book - The Beach. Twenty years ago, Ko Samui is the place to head for the sun and beach. I have never been here. I could only imagine it based on what i have read and seen on TV.

What awaits me at the shore. Have time stood still? Or has the lure of money change the way of life on the island?




- Posted by Mich using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Thailand, Ko Samui

Friday, 11 February 2011

On our way again

Passports brimming with visas, a bit of USD cash for emergencies and four bus tickets to Hat Yai in hand we are almost ready to head off at last. Over the last week or so we have been treated to a whole bunch of excellent lunches, dinners and expensive Starbucks coffee's as our friends and family have wished us well and sent us on our our way. All that is left is to throw a few things in our backpacks, clean and lock the flat and get ourselves down to Beach Rd and were off.

Thank you to everyone in Singapore for taking such good care of us, we will keep blogging if you are curious what we are up to and we will see you in the summer. To our friends and family in Thailand, China and UK - looking forward to seeing you soon.


- Posted by Dave using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Singapore