Rabid dogs of Samui?

Over the years I've taken to running every few days for an hour or so at dawn. I find it the most beautiful time of day, cool in the tropics, the streets are deserted and the world is energized by the sunrise. A time when the family are asleep, I'm not called for or missed - a precious hour within which I can rest my mind in rhythmic breathing. With sunrise at 6, I was thus up at 5:30 on our last morning in Samui heading out for a run. Mindful of the packs of unpredictable semi wild dogs roaming around the island, I venture off towards the track leading from the "resort" to the main road armed with an umbrella and a torch. Just enough starlight to pick out my route between the wooden huts, the only sound my shoes on the sand, a light breeze in the palm trees and the gentle lapping of the ocean at the beach.

Peering into the gloom of the track as it heads into the woods, I hear a deep snarling growl perhaps 25 meters ahead to the right. I imagine I see fiery demon eyes peering out of the blackness when the bushes burst into a chorus of barks sending a chill of adrenaline down my spine. As I hold my ground, weighing up the path and the umbrella gripped firmly in my hand, the barks are answered by more barks further off in the darkness, then others and still more off in the distance in every direction. The gloom appears to be literally crawling with angry dogs and the possibility of launching myself up the track and reaching the main road with my throat intact feels increasingly remote. I decide to postpone this caper until sun up and head back to our hut. It's now maybe 5:35 am. I stroll back to the beach, the chorus of savagery slowly quietening behind me.

Turning in front of the first hut on the beach, I startle four wrecked backpackers lounging on the balcony, shrouded in blue smoke, half smoked spliff in hand no doubt contemplating the nature of the universe in slow hushed tones. My chirpy "morning!" is met initially with surprise, an element of confusion and then a quiet german accented "good morning...." from a young bearded guy whose eyes appeared to be looking in different directions. Being somewhat familiar with their condition, I continue on my way explaining; "I was going for a run - but have you heard those woods? Don't stray from your balcony...". To which the balcony bursts into hysterical laughter that I can still hear as I kick off my shoes back at our hut. I vaguely remember those days.... I wake up Michelle and we spend an hour or so doing puja. When I head out for my run, the woods are bathed in the gentle early morning light, the packs of mangy dogs are still milling about but the dawn has robbed them of their power. The huts at the end of the beach were still silent when we left for Bangkok at mid day.


- Posted by Dave using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Bo Phut Beach, Koh Samui, Thailand