Week 11 - Mongolian Ger

Three in the morning and the call of nature has me pushing open the brightly painted wooden door of our Mongolian Ger and wandering out into the vast open plain of the Terelj National Park. The full moon gently filtered by high light cloud casts a magical silver glow over the silent grassland. The air is cold and clear and my gentle clouds of breath seem to issue in a roar against the deafening silence and the crunch of my boots on the sandy ground echoes off the broad slopes of the surrounding hills. I think this is quite possibly as far from civilization I have ventured and still been comfortable and the sense of calm is tangible.

Back in the Ger, I throw another log on the small metal stove and climb back under the sleeping back. The bags are designed for sub zero temperature but this roomy felt walled tent is beautifully warm and I can see from the light of the sputtering candle that Michelle and the kids are fast asleep, comfortably sprawled on the single wooden beds. Blowing out the candle, this warm space plunges into semi darkness and I drift off to sleep, watching the dancing shadows from the glow of the fire.

When I wake up, the sun is illuminating the sky to the east behind the bolder strewn hills, our fire is dead and the morning chill has taken the room. I quickly set the fire, get a fresh brew of shou cha into the flask and quietly get on with my morning puja. By the time the family stirs the Ger is hot once more and the farmers son is cheerfully banging on our door with a big plate of bread and jam. Jon Jon complains of sore legs and we remind him of his two hours on the brown Mongolian gelding with the farmers son the previous evening - most of which at full gallop. The bread is soon devoured and as always too soon we are back on our way to Ulaan Bataar. I reserve comment on Mongolia's capital and feel our stay there was a little too long but I will remember Mongolia fondly for our stay in an ancient and simple rural abode that sits so well in this land of rugged beauty.

- Posted by Dave using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia