Contributors

This blog follows the travels of the Turberfield family as they drop out of the normal busyness of corporate life to explore the ancient art of Tibetan Thangka, the dusty mountaintop temples of the eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau and travel overland from Singapore to England.

Offering to The Spiritual Guide in a lofty gompa perched above the natural fort of Dongwan valley, weekly trips to Shangri La's unpredictable shower rooms, keeping the cows out of the bins, scaling sacred Mount Shika, haggling for pu-er in the tea markets of Kunming and the nightly wonder of the milky way - possibly as far as it's possible to get from the subway at rush hour....

The main contributors are Michelle (also widely known as "The Boss") and David with bits and pieces from San San and Jon Jon. We hope you enjoy and look forward to your comments.

Monday, 11 April 2011

Week 9 - Xian

Perhaps having united the Middle Kingdom, Emperor Qin's monumental effort to bury 6,000 full sized pottery soldiers was based on his clairvoyant vision of the river of money that would issue forth 2,500 years later... If so, he was most certainly a visionary as the slick commercial venture of the Terra-cotta Warriors is a sight to behold, both in terms of this undoubtedly remarkable ancient historical wonder and the way it is sold.

Some fifteen years ago, I recall being dropped off by taxi pretty well outside the gate of Pit 1, pushing my way through a throng of trinket sellers to buy my ticket and wandering directly into the main exhibit (Pit 2 being under construction). Having casually wandered around for half an hour, I remember grabbing a corn on the cob from a street stall and hopping back into a cab back to town.

Now it's a case of walking half a kilometer through a vast car park full of coaches and cars, pushing your way through a gaggling throng of smartly dressed official guides to a Disneyland style ticketing office. Ticket in hand you then have to work your way through row upon row of neat souvenir shops, coffee shops, restaurants, book stalls and a multitude of street vendors for a good 20 minutes before reaching the bag scan machines manned by armed security and a battery of ticket turnstiles. For RMB5 per person you can bypass the whole fiasco by golf buggy that runs through a newly built park behind the shops - but only on the way in. There is no avoiding it on the way back. And needless to say the place is packed!

Eves dropping on a bunch of foreigners on the bus back to town discussing the possibility of the whole thing being an elaborate Chinese government scam, made us smile. There was a serious edge to their conversation and if I hadn't seen it back in the '90s, I could have found myself wondering.

All in all, an interesting day trip - the historical value of which is indeed huge but the overall experience a little tiresome. I personally found the 14 km walk around Xian's ancient city wall far more enjoyable, dispute the constant, "Are we there yet?" that seems to be following me around. Next stop - Beijing and a week of intensive Mandarin lessons... roll on Mongolia.



- Posted by Dave using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Xian, China

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